Spoiler alert: it’s more than just ‘apply SPF’

This isn’t a blame game, we can’t be skincare saints all of the time but sometimes, even when we think we’re doing the best for our skin, we might not be. That’s why we’ve called in the professionals – to ensure we’re not making mistakes that could be scuppering our skin without us realising. Here’s what they wished we knew and what we’ll be aiming to do from now on…

CONSISTENCY IS KEY 

We live in a world of instant gratification but when it comes to skin, you need to give it time to recalibrate so the real changes can take place. Stopping product use after a week because you haven’t seen a difference is sacrilege because a skin cycle takes around 28 days on average, so it’s not unusual for products to take longer than that to start producing ongoing results. 

“Consistency and routine matter far more than chasing the latest products. Gentle, barrier-supporting care tailored to your skin type, combined with good hydration, stress management and sleep, is what forms the foundation for long-term skin health, and these habits will have a bigger impact over any single trendy product,” says Dr Aiza Jamil, consultant dermatologist at SK:N Clinics. 

FOCUS ON YOUR SKIN AND YOUR SKIN ONLY 

When it comes to your skin you need to be self-absorbed. It’s difficult when social media stars are divulging details of how they cured their skin conditions, or products are promising you a fix-everything formula, but everyone’s skin functions and acts differently. “The skin is an organ, not a canvas, and it has intricate systems that need balance, so to truly see results, you need to understand how your skin functions,” explains clinical facialist Kate Kerr. “Without this understanding, even the most active or high-end products can miss the mark because you’re not working with your skin’s own biology.”  

For example, someone’s acne breakout might not be caused by the same triggers as yours (stress, hormones, environment) and the same with rosacea or fine lines. If you can, get to an expert for some tailored advice and a structured routine so you can learn which actives you need and how you should use them rather than second-guessing. 

LOOK FOR EVIDENCE 

“It’s so important to distinguish scientific evidence from marketing and focus on what the research tells us and not the hype. However, in terms of evidence, retinoids are one of the few skincare ingredients proven to reduce fine lines and improve texture by increasing the production of collagen, help fade age spots and improve irregular pigmentation,” says Dr Alpa Kanji, consultant dermatologist at The Bronte Clinic. “They can be found in prescription-grade products, and less potent versions, such as retinols, can be found in over-the-counter products. The research is there, and the results can be very effective.”   

STOP OVERUSING PRODUCTS 

Apparently almost three quarters of skincare users don’t use the right amount of each product (they use too much), which means they’re overloading the skin, spending more money on replacements and could be doing more harm than good. “The last few years have been all about layering skincare products: mixing acids, serums, piling on actives, but less is more. Overcomplicated routines and using more than 1-2 pumps of products can cause irritation and sensitivity to the skin barrier, so be sparing and strategic with your products,” explains Jay Clayton, Owner and Aesthetic Practitioner at Luxe Aesthetics. 

CONSIDER THE SEASON 

You change your wardrobe with the seasons but what about your skincare wardrobe? Not all ingredients work to your advantage all year round as your skin barrier will have different needs at different times of the year. “Actives like BHAs, a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, can be fantastic for improving the skin’s texture as they can deeply penetrate pores to dissolve oil and dead skin cells. They’re great in summer when the skin tends to produce more oils,” says skincare expert, Charlotte Murdock. “That said, in winter, salicylic acid is not necessarily the exfoliant friend you hope for. Using chemical exfoliators in winter can damage the sacred skin barrier while the skin is already subject to harsh, drying weather and strip the skin of its essential natural oils. It’s important to go easy on the actives and nourish the skin with deeply hydrating serums and moisturisers to protect against those cold temperatures.” 

WEAR SPF, OBVIOUSLY 

Daily defence from UV rays is a non-negotiable skincare commandment but still people think they only need to wear SPF on holiday, in sunny weather or that the SPF in their make-up will suffice. Sound the claxons: it won’t. “It’s simple – daily defence against UVA and UVB exposure helps prevent DNA damage that accelerates ageing and contributes to conditions that further compromise the skin’s health,” states Kate. Inflammation, pigmentation, collagen breakdown, fine lines, firmness, SPF isn’t a superhero but it will help ward off the aforementioned for longer.